Spotted this via EV Grieve, and it predictably made my blood boil. I'm not that familiar with the work of food critic Sam Sifton, but his frothy-mouthed
handjob review of Daniel Boulud's lamentably-named eatery, DBGB has just enough lame and lazy allusions to vintage punk rock to make me want to pry out his eyeballs with a butter knife. Maybe the food is indeed sublime at this place, but I'd sooner eat out of a toilet bowl.
"Once, this kind of nerve might have gotten his plate-glass windows smashed. (We ain’t got time for that now.) These days it brings middle-aged Bouluddites in town cars and sportswear to eat and drink beer, to talk gaily of the market, the Galliano show in Paris, the Astor verdict, Letterman. "
HURL
Posted by: Bowery Boogie | October 14, 2009 at 12:42 PM
C'mon...would you REALLY sooner eat out of a toilet bowl?
Posted by: Tim B. | October 15, 2009 at 12:07 PM
Well, that depends on the toilet bowl, I suppose. WITHOUT MY HYPERBOLE, I AM NOTHING, TIM!!!!
Posted by: Alex in NYC | October 15, 2009 at 12:12 PM
SAM SIFTON used to be an incredibly cool guy and a great writer for the NYPress back in the early 90's then he went on to NEW YORK i believe when that Tina person took over, he also wrote this, http://www.burningflags.com/press/newyorkpress.php so either he's changed or you may want to re-read that and give him a bit of credibility based on my opinion... i'll go and try to read the piece...
Posted by: GEF | October 17, 2009 at 10:54 PM
Funnily enough, when my wife read this, she was outraged with me (she being a big Sifton fan as well -- how have I been missing his stuff all this time?) Perhaps I'm being too harsh and/or protective and/or sensitive and/or juvenile (very probably the latter). It's really Danielle Boulud who is at fault here. But really -- "Now I Wanna Serve Some Sausage"? We Ain't Got Time For That Now"? C'mon now.
Posted by: Alex in NYC | October 18, 2009 at 08:32 AM